Three Days in Italy's Food Capital: Bologna
(and a long list of extras!)
Ciao ragazzi!
Bologna wasn’t always high on my list, but once it made its way in, I started hearing about it everywhere—tips from friends, pasta photos on Instagram, memories from my grandmother, who loved the city back in the ‘80s when she worked as a children’s book editor. I never got to exchange thoughts with her about it, though I’ve been told she spoke of its quiet charm, its slightly academic feel—the kind of place that feels poetic.
Bologna still holds that energy. The tilted bell towers, the endless porticoes—it feels as though the city’s been gently paused in time. But walk through it and it’s anything but still. Students spill into the streets, galleries open late, wine bars stretch out onto the pavement. There’s always something happening.
So here it is: three days in Bologna, built for walking and wandering. And most importantly, eating extremely well. Perfect for a long weekend when you want all the Italian energy without the chaos of Rome or the crowds of Florence.
There’s a bigger list of extra spots at the end if you want to dive deeper or tailor your trip.
Good to Knows
A few small tips:
Walk it. Once you’re in the historic center, everything’s within 20–30 minutes on foot. No need for buses or bikes unless your feet are really done for
Pack for layers. This is northern Italy—between October and April, expect rain, damp air, and a bit of a chill. The porticoes help (Bologna has nearly 40 km of them!) but layers are your friend
Slow down. Bologna moves at its own rhythm. Long lunches melt into aperitivo hour, especially on weekends. No one’s rushing you out of a restaurant
Mind your Google Maps. The porticoes sometimes throw off GPS, especially at night—don’t stress if you have to loop around a bit.
Come hungry. Bologna’s soul is edible. It's the birthplace of tagliatelle al ragù, mortadella, lasagna alla Bolognese—and home to some of the best meals of my life, from €2 pizza slices to full-blown Michelin delight
Day 1.
Getting your bearings—first exploration, first bites.
Morning.
Arrive & check in: We stayed at The Social Hub, a half-hotel/half-student-residence setup. Clean, modern, easy to reach the center. Nothing ultra-charming, but it saved us euros we could gleefully redirect toward food (priorities)
Breakfast: Forno Brisa. Coffee, a cornetto, and a very soft landing into Bologna life.
They have several locations but the Galleria location feels quieter, more local. They call themselves a "rebel bakery" and I love them for that. Tip: Not into a sweet breaky? Get a slice of pizza (when Italy, everything is allowed)
Wander under the porticoes: From Forno Brisa, walk south along Via dell’Indipendenza, the city’s lively main artery to Piazza Magiore. Veer off into side streets when they call you—maybe dip into Humana Vintage Bologna if you're in the mood to thrift, or swing by Palazzo Gaudenzi Già dal Monte to peek at University of Bologna history and hidden frescoes
Biblioteca Salaborsa: Right by Piazza Maggiore, this public library is a beautiful mix of modern light and ancient bones—literally. You can view Roman ruins through glass floors. It’s free to enter, and even if you’re not a bookworm, the atmosphere is special
Lunch.
Option 1: If you want to sit down: Sfoglia Rina is where fresh pasta dreams come true. Handmade tortellini, tagliatelle, simple sauces done right. Started as a small pasta shop 50 years ago—it's not fancy but properly delicious. Dish recs: Tortellini in butter and sage (a dream if you love delicate flavors), Tagliatelle al ragù (obviously—this is the dish of Bologna)
Option 2: If you’re short on time or just want to graze: Mercato di Mezzo is an old-market-turned-food-hall. Yes, a little touristy, but still solid for a casual pasta, pizza, or a quick spritz upstairs. Tip: Grab a seat upstairs for better people-watching. The energy is lively without being overwhelming
Afternoon.
Bologna Welcome Walking Tour: Highly recommend if you want to hit all major sites and get a glimpse into the city’s backstory told by someone who loves it—why Bologna used to be Italy’s intellectual capital, how the university changed the city, and the strange stories behind the famous Due Torri (Two Towers). Tours at 10:30AM and 3PM, €18 per person, run by Bologna Welcome, the official tourism office
Aperitivo: Casa Minghetti. By now you’ve earned a spritz (or three). Head here for outdoor tables, polished but relaxed vibes, and excellent people-watching (again).
If the sun’s out, it’s the kind of place you’ll end up staying longer than planned
Night.
Dinner: Trattoria di Via Serra. Small, family-run, outside the main tourist orbit. Fresh pasta, lovely people, classic checked tablecloths—the kind of meal you’ll be talking about months later. Their handmade tortelloni and house wines are fantastic. Book ahead
Day 2.
Exploring Bologna's west side and the more lived-in spots.
Morning.
Breakfast: Caffè Terzi Bologna. Start the day with ritualistic coffee and cornetto at this old-school café, setting you up perfectly for a day of exploration
MAMbo – Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna: Next, immerse yourself in modern art at MAMbo. Housed in a former Forno del Pane (bread oven), a great contrast to the city’s ancient streets. A bit off the main tourist path, which makes it feel even more authentic. Affordable treat with a €6 entrance
Lunch.
Option 1: Osteria Bartolini. Seafood in Bologna? Believe it or not, it’s worth it. Try the sardines in oil with a squeeze of lemon or the delicate sole filets. Pair with some local white or orange wine for the full experience
Option 2: Osteria Bottega. Prefer meat? Consider a switch to this osteria for a hearty, meaty traditional Bolognese alternative
Afternoon.
Portico Walk to San Luca: Now that you’re well fueled, set off for a leisurely and somewhat spiritual stroll along the Portico di San Luca. Which I’ve recently learned is the longest portico in the world
Something sweet: After your walk, treat yourself to a gelato at Cremeria Funivia (a local favorite) for celebratory ice cream. They’ve been around for years and are known for their creamy, unique flavors
Night.
Dinner: Da Cesari. For a cozy, classic end to the day, book a table here. Their interiors ooze lively good vibes. Their tortellini in beef broth is a comforting classic, but if you're there during the right season, try the ravioli stuffed with pumpkin, butter, and parmesan
Day 3.
Bologna’s east side—a slower, quieter Bologna—secret courtyards, vintage finds, and one last plate of pasta.
Morning.
Breakfast: Caffetteria Galliera. No frills here—just solid coffee and cornetti to start your last day
Wander to Piazza Santo Stefano: Stroll toward this quieter, more intimate piazza—one of my favorites. It feels almost hidden compared to Piazza Maggiore. While you're here, step into the Basilica di Santo Stefano—also called the "Seven Churches Complex." From the outside, it’s understated. Inside, it’s a labyrinth of ancient chapels, courtyards, and frescoes—some of the oldest parts date back to the 5th century. It feels like stepping back into medieval Bologna—quiet, slightly eerie
Lunch.
Option 1: Osteria La Tigre. Make your way over to Via Rialto for lunch at this cool, retro trattoria decorated with vintage photos. Expect hearty antipasti, pastas, and mains that blend tradition with a bit of playful creativity
Option 2: Vaghi Nu'Fezzi. If you’re feeling more ‘snack’ bites this wine bar and gourmet deli is an elite combo
Sweet treat: Walk a few minutes to Cremeria Santo Stefano for some of the best gelato in Bologna—especially the signature Crema Libanese flavor (pine nuts, orange blossom, sesame 😋)
Afternoon.
Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna. After lunch, time for a bit of art and history. This museum houses Italian works from the 13th to 18th centuries, including masterpieces from the Bolognese Renaissance. It’s manageable in size (you won't get "museum fatigue") with a €8 entrance fee
Aperitivo: Zerocinquantuno. Before your final dinner, stop by for a glass of wine or a charcuterie board. It’s relaxed, with a lived-in vibe—perfect for a late afternoon reset
Night.
Final dinner: Cantina Bentivoglio. Round out your 3-day trip with classic Bolognese plates, fresh pasta, a bottle of wine and, if you're lucky, live jazz filling the room
Further list!
In case you want to keep eating, wandering, and falling more in love with Bologna.
⭐ Agostino Iacobucci. If your budget allows, this is the Michelin star experience worth planning around. Set in Villa Zarri just outside the city, chef Agostino mixes Bolognese tradition with his southern Italian roots. Rabbit alla Genovese, black truffles everywhere, and a garden perfect for a post-lunch stroll. Tip: Plan a whole afternoon here—it’s a ride to get there but so, so worth it
⭐ Certo! Pizza. Cheap square slices of focaccia-like crusts. Good to grab-and-go if you’re saving stomach space for bigger meals (or just in need of a little snack)
Trattoria Leonida. A cozy, traditional spot for Emilian and Bolognese classics, including vegetarian options if you’re getting a little pasta-and-meat fatigue
Osteria dell'Orsa. Super casual, communal tables, and hearty bowls of tagliatelle al ragù. Perfect for a chill lunch or low-key dinner
La Prosciutteria Bologna. Fun, chaotic, meat-heavy, and a little over-the-top. Expect giant meat boards, paper plates, loud tables
Salumeria Simoni. Not just a deli—this is where you stock up on cured meats, cheeses, truffle oils, and all the fancy edible souvenirs to stuff into your suitcase
Abacanto Home. Home goods and beautiful little objects
Gallina Smilza. Cute boutique for artisan gifts, quirky home pieces, and vintage finds
La Leonarda Vintage. Well-curated shop if you want something a little more special
Mirko and Kate Vintage. Another good option for more curated, handpicked pieces
Phi Hotel Bologna – Al Cappello Rosso. Stay inside a slice of the city’s history. This hotel started life as a tavern in 1375. Updated but still feels like old Bologna.
Grand Hotel Majestic "già Baglioni". A total splurge. Vintage Italian luxury—think gilded mirrors, heavy velvet drapes, and the feeling you’re in a Sofia Coppola movie. If you're honeymooning or treating yourself, this is it.
Ever been to Bologna? Any additional tips? Dimmi!
Arrivederci! Anna xx
All of these look delicious, thank you for sharing 🫠
Love this! How sweet that your grandmother had a connection to Bologna ❤️
(That photo of you is 100% how every bite feels! 🤌)