Well, that’s it - I’ve officially touched down in France. While I’m still settling in, learning to order a baguette properly, and trying to wrap my head around what it means to be a British-American-French person who hasn’t actually lived in France for 20 years (!!), I thought I’d put this together: my tried-and-tested list of favorite spots in London.

This was partly inspired by ’ Paris guide - which I loved - and wanted to do somewhat the same for London. The email I send to friends, family, friends-of-friends, and friends-of-friends-of-friends when they say: “I’m heading to London - any recommendations?”

It’s also my gentle plea: please don’t do the wrong version of London. Because I’ve heard it too many times: “London wasn’t for me” / “I didn’t get the hype.” And I always think - you just didn’t do it right.

So consider this your starter kit. Not exhaustive (London’s far too massive for that), but personal. Seven years of East and North London living. A collection of places I loved, wandered into, returned to, and sometimes sprinted home from in the rain.

And no, I’m not a London expert. Just someone who loved the city and took her coffee, pastries, walks, and dinners very seriously. If you want some more profesh takes I recommend subscribing to Vittles, Gina’s Journal, and Londonist.

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Okay, let’s begin with the most important category of all...

Breakfast, Coffee, and Pastries

My most sacred category. London spoiled me. These are best visited early on weekends or during quieter weekday hours to avoid the inevitable queue. A mix of takeaway counters, sit-down cafes, and neighbourhood faves.

• The De Beauvoir Deli (De Beauvoir) My second home. Their blueberry muffin (house-made) sells out daily. The chicken mayo sandwich, the scone, the 4pm discounted treats - all excellent. Across the street is their dine-in café for eggs, granola, or a slightly hungover Saturday. Honorable mentions nearby: Leigh’s (smaller, quieter) and Day Trip (croissant or pain au chocolat only, but very cute).

• Batch Baby (Dalston) A tiny local favorite - tucked inside the Rose Lipman Building (a creative hub with a retro, 1970s feel), it’s tiny yet full of charm. Rotating roaster “themes,” orange cafeteria-style trays, vintage mugs, and very good baked goods (go for the banana bread).

• Pophams (Islington, London Fields, Victoria Park) Born out of a love for traditional viennoiserie techniques with a creative twist, it started in a tiny, converted chemist’s shop in 2017. The pain au chocolat is hands-down the best we’ve found in London (and we’ve tried a few). If you want something different, the honey & smoked salt bun or the cardamom bun will convert you instantly.

• Dusty Knuckle (Dalston, Harringay) Started from a converted shipping container in 2014, they’re known for their sourdough, sweet feta and honey swirl, and that sticky bun (Eater recipe to get the tastebuds ready). Their milkfloat van pops up around town for grab-and-go baked goods.

• e5 Bakehouse (London Fields) Tucked away by the railway arches - excellent eggs on toast, fresh bread, and all-around wholesome energy. Feels earthy, warm, and unpretentious. Ideal post-walk stop or low-key meet-up spot.

• Friend of Ours (Old Street) Aussie brunch vibes with lots of outdoor seating and a fresh, seasonal menu.

• Ozone Coffee (various locations) Strong coffee that they roast in-house, fresh bakes, good for working out of. All locations are reliable. Great meeting point if you want something central but not soulless.

• Esters (Stoke Newington) Quiet, refined brunch café. Everything is considered - the food, the ceramics, the playlist. Try the eggs, housemade granola, or one of their beautiful toasts.

• Kuro Bakery (Notting Hill) Japanese-inspired bakery with meticulous design and delicate pastries. Not many seats - get it to go and walk through Notting Hill.

• Toad Bakery (Camberwell) - The morning bun is excellent. I was eyeing something else, then someone walked in and said, “Thanks for the morning bun - I’ve never tasted one that good.” Say less. Also worth grabbing: the everything bagel croissant - sweet, salty, and flaky.

• Fortitude Bakehouse (Bloomsbury) Central London’s secret weapon. Right behind Russell Square. A great option when you’re wondering where on earth to go for a genuinely good pastry and coffee without getting stuck in a chain café.

• Alma Cafe (various locations) Biased to their Hammersmith location that feels like a solid option out west - great açaí bowl.

Lunch

My weekday motivator and weekend reward. I feel like lunch in London hits that sweet spot - low-key but still full of intention. Some of these are more like brunch, others could lean dinner if you stretch it out with a bottle of wine.

• Jolene (various locations) Bakery-meets-bistro with a daily changing menu of seasonal dishes: fresh salads, tarts, and perfect sourdough. Feels relaxed, slightly rustic, and yes, a little bit of a scene.

• De Beauvoir Arms (De Beauvoir) A Victorian corner pub that feels like a secret if you don’t live nearby. We always end up going for their chorizo in red wine and hummus and bread for nibbles. There’s often improv upstairs too. Sister pub: The Hunter S for a similarly cozy pub energy.

• Rochelle Canteen (Shoreditch) Located inside an old school building with a leafy courtyard. A countryside escape in the middle of East London. Daily changing menu with simple British dishes done really, really well. Book ahead.

• Cafe Mundo (Camberwell) A little sandwich café that’s easy to miss and impossible to forget. I could have their turkey caesar sub every day. Good takeaway spot where you can head to Lucas Gardens to (literally) touch grass.

• Ottolenghi (various locations) A forever-favorite for salads, roasted veg, and sweet things. You can eat in or take away - go if you want something quick but not sad. Always fresh, colourful, and deceptively filling.

• Towpath (Haggerston) One of the most beloved spots on the canal - and for good reason. It gets packed but doesn’t feel overwhelming. (Their cookbook is one of the few things I packed with me to France and will proudly be displayed on my coffee table.)

• The Garden Café (Lambeth) Peaceful café in the Garden Museum - a gem if you want food that’s excellent without being flashy. You can sit with a view of the Thames, surrounded by greenery and quiet.

Dinner

London does dinner in every mood - warm pub roasts, wine bar pastas, sharing plates you pretend not to mind sharing. It’s not a city where everyone eats late, or where one type of dinner rules them all - which is part of what makes it so good. You can go classic, chaotic, cozy, or chic depending on your night.

• Brawn (Shoreditch) Where we’ve gone to celebrate all our major life events - birthdays, new (and quit) jobs, getting engaged etc. The food is Mediterranean, seasonal, and always spot on - I trust the whole menu. Bonus: you get to dine on Columbia Road which feels magical without the Sunday crowd.

• Campania & Jones (Columbia Road) Candlelit Italian trattoria with handmade pasta, cured meats, and very romantic lighting.

• Perilla (Newington Green) In the same vein as Brawn. Modern British small plates with a Nordic influence. Sourdough with brown butter and rotating things you’ve never had before and immediately love. Feels special but not formal.

• Brat X Climpson’s Arch (Hackney) Open-fire cooking in a wild back-alley archway. Much more low-key and personal than the central Brat location. Outdoors-ish, so better in decent weather - or just wear layers and drink wine.

• Firebird (Soho) I’ve been let down by central London restaurants more than once - but Firebird delivers. Mediterranean fire-cooked dishes and a fantastic wine list. Small and chic. Great for a dinner-before-a-show moment.

• Brigadiers (City of London) Indian barbecue-style food in a high-energy setting. Very fun in a group. A nice alternative to Dishoom if you’ve done it to death.

• Scolt Head (De Beauvoir) One of the best neighborhood pubs full stop. Great for a pint, but also for a proper dinner - roast chicken, pies, and the like. Shows the big football games, does a great Sunday roast, and has a garden when it’s warm.

• Burro e Salvia (Shoreditch) Homemade pasta shop + intimate dining spot. Tagliatelle with ragu and seasonal specials. Love that it hasn’t been over-commercialized despite being right on Redchurch Street.

• Ciro’s (Angel) Independent, women-led (love that), Italian restaurant & natural wine bar located near Essex Road. Not the typical trattoria vibe but very local, famiglia-style atmosphere.

• Levan (Peckham) Part of the ‘bistronomy’ movement. Casual vibes yet bold flavors. Just outside the Peckham station (which means it’s a prime location for people watching hihi).

• Elliott’s (London Fields, Borough Market) Fire-cooked veg, flatbreads, and a great location if you’ve just wandered into Borough or London Fields and are overwhelmed by the surrounding food stall options on a market day.

• The Duke of Cambridge (Organic Pub) (Islington) Britain’s first organic gastropub (as they proudly advertise) with proper food and a quiet, grown-up vibe. A lovely, dependable place.

• Tofu Vegan (various locations) Totally plant-based Chinese food and (shockingly - for us non-vegans) good. You wouldn’t expect much from the name or storefront but the menu is truly fantastic. Huge portions. Come hungry.

• Berber & Q (Haggerston) Middle Eastern/North African grill under the arches - grilled lamb, roasted cauliflower, harissa everything. Their Exmouth Market location is more polished, but this one has more edge.

• And if you want some delicious pizza around town, I wrote a whole post about my favorite pizzerias in London (recommendations I take very seriously).

Drinks

One of the best things about London - and the UK in general - is that there's always a pub nearby. It's woven into daily life in a way that feels charming. But while I love a good local (and have plenty of them), this list is for when you're looking for something a little different.

• Three Sheets (Dalston) They’ve been everywhere recently and for good reason - their bartender Alessandro Todini just won the Franklin & Sons contest. Tiny and quietly world-class. Minimalist interior, maximum cocktail precision.

• Jaguar Shoes (Shoreditch) Art bar-slash-gallery space - very East London. The energy changes depending on the night (sometimes DJs, sometimes quiet), and the interiors rotate with artist installations. Messy but fun.

• Assouline Swans Bar (Piccadilly)Totally over-the-top but I can’t not love it. A luxury cocktail nook inside the Assouline bookstore - velvet chairs, glossy books, and very expensive martinis. Feels like slipping away into a secret pocket of Central London.

• These Days (Bermondsey) Bringing aperitivo culture to South London. A neighborhood bar serving up delicious spritzes. And we love a good branding moment.

• Goodbye Horses (De Beauvoir) Natural wine bar that’s small, stripped-back, and refreshingly unpretentious. Minimal snacks, seriously knowledgeable staff and a rotating wine list. Just different enough to feel special.

• El Vermut (Peckham) Spanish vermouth bar with character and charm. Casual, simple, with a touch of theatrical flair.

• Netil 360 (London Fields) A rooftop bar without the usual rooftop scene. Views over Hackney, lots of long benches, and usually a solid playlist. Less about the drinks, more about the open air, casual vibe, and watching the sky turn pink.

Museums & Sites

London has a lot of museums and historical sites - so many that it’s easy to either get overwhelmed or end up doing something wildly overrated (looking at you, the Dungeon). But if you pick right, these places offer some of the best moments in the city. Bonus: most permanent exhibitions at London museums are free, which makes it ideal for wandering when you don’t have a specific expo in mind or it’s sold out.

• V&A (Victoria & Albert Museum) (South Kensington) My favorite. Grand without being stiff, full of art, design, fashion, and unexpected beauty. Come early on a Saturday or Sunday and grab a coffee and a scone at the café. The new V&A Storehouse also just opened and is worth the trip (this time out east near Stratford) - like walking through the backstage world of museum curation.

• The Barbican (Barbican) A mix of things to do: cinema, music, architecture tours, art & design expos etc. The Conservatory is a standout and a total contrast to the brutalist building it lives in: a massive indoor garden with over 1,500 species of plants. Feels like stumbling into a little greenhouse jungle in the middle of concrete London.

• National Portrait Gallery (Trafalgar Square) Recently reopened and beautifully done. A mix of history, modern portraiture, and British storytelling through faces. Head upstairs to the rooftop restaurant for one of the best central London views - especially at sunset.

• Wellcome Collection (Euston) “A free museum and library exploring health and human experience” - say no more. A museum that mixes science, medicine, art, and anthropology in really unexpected ways. Always thought-provoking.

• Tower of London (Tower Hill) If you’re going to do one “touristy” thing, make it this. There’s real history here, and the complimentary Beefeater tours (every hour) are great. The Crown Jewels also still manage to impress.

• Saatchi Gallery (Chelsea) Always rotating contemporary art. A good one if you want a break from the National Gallery-style classics.

• Buckingham Palace (Westminster) They only open it to the public once a year (usually late summer), and it’s totally worth it if you can grab tickets. Slightly surreal walking through those rooms - both opulent and surprisingly human at times.

Walks & Parks

One thing I didn’t fully appreciate until I left: London is wild with green space. Big, leafy parks where it smells like trees and you can forget you're in a city of 9 million.

• Regent’s Canal Walk: Angel → London Fields → Victoria Park. My favorite stretch of the canal. You can start near Angel and follow the water east - through Islington, past houseboats and willow trees, until you hit Broadway Market or Victoria Park. Walk or bike it, and stop for a pastry or coffee along the way.

• Hampstead Heath (Hampstead) Wild, sprawling, and a little magical. Long grass, muddy trails, and sudden panoramic views of the city. Home to the women’s bathing ponds, which I haven’t visited in years but still remember vividly - a total oasis. Great for feeling very far away without actually leaving Zone 2.

• Victoria Park (Hackney) Vicky Park is big and beautiful. Perfect for runs, long walks, dog-watching, and picnics in the summer. There’s a Pavilion café in the middle and a lake with swan boats that makes it all the more charming.

• London Fields (Hackney) More of a weekend picnic-and-people-watch park. Buzzier, younger, and full of energy. You’ll usually find someone playing music, someone grilling, and someone doing yoga.

• De Beauvoir Rose Garden (De Beauvoir) Not a full-on park, but if you’re in the area, this tiny rose garden is worth a little detour. Especially nice in spring / summer when everything’s in bloom.

• Primrose Hill (Camden) Yes, it’s famous (and touristy), but the view at the top is worth it - especially at sunset. Combine it with a walk through Regent’s Park, or bring a snack and join everyone else watching the sky change color.

• Greenwich Park + Observatory (Greenwich) If you want to go further out for the day. A more structured, grand-feeling park with sweeping lawns and that iconic hilltop view over the city skyline.

Areas & Tips

• Favorite shops: I get overstimulated in Harrods and Selfridges - they feel like temples to things I don’t want. These are the kinds of shops I actually enjoy being in: Liberty (Soho) - iconic, wood-paneled, cozy but grand, Choosing Keeping (Covent Garden) - gorgeous supplies, notebooks, handmade things, Labour and Wait (Shoreditch) - old-school homeware and tools, Daunt Books (Marylebone and others) - beautiful bookshop with a curated feel.

• The West End is often worth it - some of the best shows (theatre and musicals) I saw in London were smaller productions with rotating casts. Try TodayTix or TKTS (Leicester Square booth) for last-minute discounted tickets. One I that was recommended to us and now I always recommend: Operation Mincemeat - creative, unexpected, and London-born.

• Markets in London can feel a bit like clichés - but the right ones still hold charm. A few favorites: Columbia Road Flower Market (Sunday only) - come early for the flowers, stay for the surrounding vintage shops and cafés. Spitalfields Market (Tower Hamlets) has solid food options, vintage pop-ups, and a good buzz. Broadway Market (Saturdays) - one of my weekend rituals. Food stalls, shops, and close to the canal and London Fields.

• If you want to do a proper high tea, treat it like the bougie experience that it is. Fortnum & Mason - classic and very polished, The Ritz and The Wolseley - as grand and over-the-top as you’d hope. Also checkout this list from .

• Getting around: use your contactless card or phone. Buses are underrated: great views, less claustrophobic and slower than the Tube. Lime bikes are everywhere - but be careful, especially at night. Some roads (and drivers) are unforgiving. Also, Citymapper > Google Maps for public transport - more accurate and tells you which Tube exit to take.

• Theft & safety: unfortunately, phone/bag snatching is very real - especially near busy areas like Shoreditch, Brick Lane, and Soho. But really, it happens everywhere now. Use a small crossbody bag, don’t walk with your phone out, and keep an eye on your stuff at cafés. I get a little paranoid about it - but being cautious is worth it.

I’ve got a bunch of other guides sitting quietly in my drafts - a day out in West London, a list of overrated London spots (and what to do instead), etc. But for now, this is the list I send to everyone. Anything you’d add to this list?

And from here on out, you’ll probably see more of France too - life, reflections, moments, discoveries - sprinkled in as well. Hope that works for you.

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Thanks for reading Once in!

Bisous xx

Anna

I was surprised by just how wild parts of the Cape felt - pristine beaches, dunes that stretch on and on, and little pockets of untouched greenery that give the feeling you’re at the very edge of the world. It’s quite peaceful - not quite island time, but not far off - with enough local life, art, and food to keep you happily wandering.

We based ourselves in Chatham, a charming and well-situated town that gave us easy access to the eastern coastline and the tip of the Cape. We didn’t cover it all (Hyannis and the west are on the list for next time), but here’s a handful of spots we loved from our few days away.

Some notes:

• We visited just before high season (Memorial Day to Labor Day), so not everything was open - but that meant fewer crowds, which we didn’t mind.

• You definitely need a car to get around, not walkable but it’s bike-friendly if you’re up for it.

• For more recs, I recommend the NYTimes 36 Hours on the Outer Cape, and 36 Hours in Provincetown (found by my fiancé-in-law (is that a thing?))

• Here’s my Google Maps list with all the starred spots and a few extras.

• And yes - play Walcott on repeat as the unofficial Cape Cod soundtrack.

Cafés + Bakeries

Who knew Cape Cod was a bit of a haven for coffee lovers? We came across SO many solid spots - from cozy small-town bakeries to specialty roasters, there’s a lot to love.

Our favorites:

📍Three Fins Coffee & Cacao (Chatham)
We went every day. Housed in a reconverted gym (the dining room is literally inside an old pool!), this place has great energy, excellent coffee (roasted in-house), and the best gluten-free muffins I’ve ever had. Don't be thrown off by the all-black exterior - it’s full of personality inside. Also a location in Dennis.

📍Cottage Street Bakery (Orleans)
Cuuuute. Home of the famous dirt bombs, this place is tiny but buzzing with locals. We only popped in for pastries, but we wished we had more time (and the appetite) to stay longer. Definitely regretted not trying the bisque.

📍Relish Bakery & Sandwich Shop (Provincetown)
Go early for the blueberry muffins - soft, buttery, so SO good. The sandwiches also looked amazing, and the staff were lovely. Great stop before hitting the town or beach.

Other noteworthy spots:

• Liberty Artisanal Bakery (Chatham): Cute for a quick pickup. Their selection rotates almost daily, and the bread looked mmm mmm good.

• Snowy Owl (Chatham + Brewster): We didn’t make it this time, but it’s saved for next round - I mean if the Reddit thread recommends it, you gotta go, right?

Eats + Sips

Cape Cod has a lot of dining options - though it can be tricky to figure out what’s worth it and what’s just riding the high-season tourist wave. Prices run high, and some places can feel a bit too commercial. But we found a few gems - simple, relaxed, some might even say we had the best lobster rolls of our lives.

Here’s where we’d go back:

📍Mac’s Chatham Fish & Lobster (Chatham)
A sun-soaked lunch here was one of the best parts of the trip. The lobster roll was perfect - buttery, flavorful, not too heavy. Sit outside, soak up the sunshine, and let the roll do the talking.

📍Mac’s on the Pier (Wellfleet)
Another standout lobster roll, this time with full-on seaside shack vibes. It’s right on the water - casual, no frills. (Side note: is every shack owner on the Cape named Mac?)

📍Moby Dick’s (Wellfleet)
More of a sit-down spot, but still laid-back. On the edge of town, so likely packed in the summer months, but the food was hearty and the staff welcoming.

Other noteworthy spots:

• Liz’s Cafe, Anybody’s Bar (Provincetown): Classic American breakfast done right, diner-style.

• Hog Island Beer Co. (Orleans): The brewskies and food-truck-style bites look really good.

• Truro Vineyards (North Truro): On our list, but the weather didn’t cooperate. Feels built for a sunny, slow afternoon - hopefully next time.

• Sweet Tomatoes Pizza (Chatham): Great for a casual night in. Thin crust, balanced toppings, not too oily - we were pleasantly surprised. Even as self-confessed New York pizza snobs, this one got a thumbs up.

Local Shops + Treasures

Cape Cod is full of shops - but truthfully, a lot of them lean toward the usual tourist fare: overpriced, same-same trinkets, and not much in the way of local charm. But tucked in between, we found a few really special spots.

Here’s where we found the good stuff:

📍The Customs House Fine Papers (Wellfleet)
A true gem. Thoughtfully curated paper goods, cards, notebooks, and small home pieces - everything felt intentional. Heidi, the owner, is lovely. We walked out with a notebook, a box, and a handful of cards we didn’t need but had to have.

📍Salt (Wellfleet)
A fashion boutique inside a beautifully converted house. Great mix of brands.

📍Perry’s Fine Wines & Liquors (Provincetown)
Great for stocking up on wines or picking up a beachside bottle, not your average liquor store.

Other noteworthy spots:

• AIM Thrift Shop(Wellfleet): Proper little thrift shop - takes a bit of digging.

• Provincetown is full of small galleries - some more affordable than others - that are worth exploring. We wandered in and out of a few that featured local artists, and even just window shopping felt inspiring.

Scenic Stops

One of the things that surprised me most about Cape Cod was just how wild and beautiful the landscape is - it’s expansive, almost cinematic.

Here are some of the places where that feeling really came through:

📍Race Point Beach (Provincetown)
Stunning. Just stunning. The drive alone - through the sand dunes - feels like part of the destination. You can bike, hike, or simply drive through, but don’t skip it. Feels beautifully otherworldly.

📍Wellfleet (the town + harbor)
We loved wandering around Wellfleet - it felt lived-in and local (more so than Chatham), with a touch of old-school charm. The harbor area is great for a walk, and the surrounding marshes and coastal roads give you that serene, slightly-salty, "you’re really on the Cape" feeling.

📍Provincetown
Provincetown is… an experience? Part artsy coastal town, part chaotic boardwalk. Commercial Street (especially the central stretch between Lopes Square and MacMillan Pier) can feel like Cape Cod’s answer to Disney World. But just a few blocks outside that core, the town becomes quieter and more charming: pastel houses, hidden galleries, locals tending their gardens. Worth the visit - just veer off the main drag for the best bits.

Other noteworthy spots:

• First Encounter Beach (Eastham): Weather didn’t cooperate but looks great at sunset. Named for the site of the Pilgrims' first encounter with the Nauset tribe.

• Lighthouse Beach + Chatham Light (Chatham): The beach here stretches on and on, with the lighthouse perched just behind you - classic Cape Cod.

• Chatham Main Street: A blend of charm and a few too many touristy storefronts - but still worth a stroll.

Cape Cod, Until Next Time

Cape Cod is officially on the list of places I want to return to. Loved the mix of windswept nature with low-key local vibes. Even with just a few days, we felt like we got a real taste of the Cape’s personality.

If you’ve been and have favorite spots - food, coffee, beaches, trails, shops - I’d love to hear them!

As always, thanks for reading.

xx Anna

Surprise! A little mid-week guide to one of my favorite neighborhoods in New York (possibly the world). I was just there last week and felt inspired to jot down my perfect day on the Upper West Side - bagels, walks in the park, museums, all of it. Treat this as a bonus post before Friday’s piece, where I’ll be sharing what I usually (almost always) bring back from the US.

I had the very lucky fortune of being born and raised - at least for part of my life - on New York’s Upper West Side.

I didn’t fully appreciate it growing up (classic), but now that I live in London, I try to savor it every time I visit. One of my sisters and her fiancé (!!) still live there, which gives me the perfect excuse to come back and soak in the neighborhood with a fresh perspective.

Believe it or not, the UWS was recently named one of the friendliest neighborhoods in the entire country - something we could all use a little more of these days.

So whether you're visiting New York and want to spend a day exploring - or you're a local looking for fresh weekend inspiration - here’s my short neighborhood guide to the UWS.

👉 Don’t know what to wear while in NY? I made a Moodboard for City Spring Breaks that is perfectly tailored to the Big Apple.

🗺️ Getting Around

Some pro tips:

• The 1/2/3 subway lines run right along Broadway and are the easiest way to zip up or down the west side of the city.

• You can easily explore the UWS on foot - leafy streets, brownstones, and lots of “cute, cute, cute” moments. Don’t be afraid to get a lost in the side streets.

• If you're heading through Central Park, hop on a Citi Bike (the electric ones are a dream and make the small hills feel nonexistent).

• Avoid pedicabs and horse carriages at.all.costs. They’re wildly overpriced and frankly a scam.

• Find my full UWS Google Maps list here – save it for on-the-go inspo!

9:00am – Bagel + Coffee

🥯 Kossar’s (72nd & West End) or Zucker’s (73rd & Columbus). It’s criminal to start a morning in NYC without a bagel and coffee. Head over to Kossar’s (more doughy) or Zucker’s for a classic lox and cream cheese - or my go-to: egg white and bacon on a whole wheat everything bagel (because, balance).

☕️ Solid State Coffee (71st & Columbus). Grab your coffee at Solid State, a local roastery that cares about sourcing and sustainability. They make a tasty overnight oats if you’re craving something sweet.

Take it all to go and head to the park...

10:00am – Central Park Wander

🌳 Enter at 72nd Street

Start at The Dakota, the historic building where John Lennon and Yoko Ono once lived. Tragically, Lennon was shot outside its entrance in 1980.

Just inside the park, you'll find the iconic Imagine mosaic at Strawberry Fields. Yes, it’s a bit touristy - but it always gives me a little lump in my throat. There’s something moving and serene about it, whether you’re a Beatles fan or simply someone who appreciates the impact of music in culture.

From there, find a bench, wander through Sheep Meadow, or keep walking toward Bethesda Fountain. Central Park never really gets old - and this part of it is a perfect way to ease into your day.

Once you’re done with your brekkie make your way through the park…

11:00am – Museum Hour

A choice between two iconic museums, two completely different vibes.

🎨 The Met (East Side, 82nd St). If you’re feeling classic, The Met - technically across the park on the Upper East Side - is vast and beautiful. You won’t see everything in one go, so don’t even try. Zero in on a few rooms (the Temple of Dendur / Egypt, the Impressionists, or whatever exhibition is on) and leave the rest for another visit.

🦕 The American Museum of Natural History (Central Park West, 79th St). If I’m picking favorites though, it’s The AMNH. This place has followed me through nearly every phase of life. As a kid, it was my playground - dinosaurs, the giant blue whale, the Moai cast from Easter Island... Then came the Night at the Museum movie (still holds up, perfect excuse for a rewatch). Years later, I studied abroad in Chile and made it all the way to Easter Island, where I got to see the actual Moai statues in person. And then at uni, I found myself back at the museum in a whole new light - studying ecological anthropology, reading about Jane Goodall, whose work is deeply connected to the museum’s research and conservation initiatives. Full circle moment.

It’s rare for a place to grow with you like that, and I’m definitely biased - but I think that makes it all the more worth the visit.

1:00pm – Lunch

🍕 Parla (UWS exclusive!). Independent, and one-of-a-kind (rare for NYC). Their pizzas are miam miam miam: the Stratch (stracciatella, tomato, basil) and The Nice Guy (caramelized onion, goat cheese, prosciutto, and arugula) are perfect. The space is cozy and stylish without trying too hard. Book ahead - they fill up fast.

🦞 The Mermaid Inn. If you’re in the mood for something a bit more refined, this is a great spot. A riff on a New England fish shack. Think: raw bar, fish tacos, and lobster roll. Looks like they’ve got great cocktails if you’re leaning into the leisurely lunch vibe. Sit outside if the weather’s nice and people watch the UWS crowd.

3:00pm – Shopping + Browsing

🛍️ Grand Bazaar NYC (Sundays only). If you’re in the neighborhood on a Sunday, don’t miss this outdoor flea market. There’s vintage, handmade goods, antiques, records, and plenty of local charm. You never know what you’ll find.

👚 Housing Works (Columbus & 74th St). This thrift shop is constantly rotating inventory, and my sister and I have scored everything from a striped t-shirt to unique, wonderful homeware. Proceeds go toward a great cause too, which makes browsing feel even better.

👜 Unique Boutique (Columbus & 83rd St). A bit more under-the-radar than Housing Works - this one requires more digging, but you can find gems if you’re patient.

🧀 Zabar’s (Broadway & 80th St). Less shopping, more wandering through a New York institution. You can head to the smoked fish counter, stay for the chaotic energy and excellent cheese selection. (Fairway Market, just down the block, is also a great option if you're feeling snacky.)

5:00pm – Drinks

🍸 Owl’s Tail (Broadway & 75th St). A cozy cocktail spot with charm and a thoughtful drink list. I haven’t made it in myself just yet, but it’s on my list for my next trip.

🧊 Bonus idea: Grab something to-go and head to Riverside Park for a golden hour stroll. It’s a little less trafficked than Central Park and has stunning views over the Hudson. A very NY way to end the afternoon.

7:00pm – Dinner

🍽️ Miriam. Originally from Park Slope and now thriving on the UWS. This Mediterranean spot nails the balance between casual and special. You’ll find green shakshuka, Jerusalem bagels, and a rotating lineup of mezze. Great energy.

Extra Picks

✨ Local Favorites (a bit more under-the-radar, very UWS)

• Mast Market - pricey but coffee’s great and their pantry section is fun to browse.

• Old John’s Diner - a real NY diner with all-day breakfast and chrome counters.

• Barney Green Grass - legendary Jewish deli.

• Pappardella - “cucina tipica italiana.”

• Saiguette - looks like nothing, yet my sister swears by its deliciousness.

• The Hoptimist - devotion to New York State-made beers and ciders.

• Lilly’s - not for the food, but a cosy intimate space for a drink with friends.

• Book Culture - indie bookstore. Higher up in Morningside Heights.

• Symphony Space - if you're staying late and want some culture - readings, films, music.

🥡 Chains I Actually Like (and Think You Will Too)

• Tacombi - casual tacos + cool interiors. Easy lunch or quick dinner.

• Daily Provisions - amazing crullers, solid sandwiches (and good coffee!)

• Westville - clean, simple, fresh. Good salads and plates.

• Lenwich - for a true NY sandwich, quick and satisfying.

• Patsy’s Pizzeria - confession, I’ve never been, but locals swear by it.

• Pastrami Queen - classic NY Jewish deli. Huge sandwiches, tender pastrami.

• Felice - if you’re in the mood for pasta and a glass of wine in a chic space, this Italian spot has you covered.

• Levain Bakery - ending with something sweet with possibly the most famous cookies in the city. Gooey, massive, overhyped? Maybe. Still delicious? Yes.

• Salt & Straw - Portland’s fave ice cream store has opened on the UWS (!!)

It’s always special coming back to this neighborhood - it’s shaped so many parts of my life. The UWS doesn’t try too hard, and maybe that’s what I love most.

Whether you’re visiting for the first time or seeing it with fresh eyes, I hope this little guide gives you a day (or two) that feels easy, full, and just a bit magical. I’m sure there are plenty of other great spots I’ve missed, so drop your favorites in the comments - I’d love to hear what you find.

See you at the bagel counter 🗽
xx Anna

Ciao ragazzi!

Bologna wasn’t always high on my list, but once it made its way in, I started hearing about it everywhere—tips from friends, pasta photos on Instagram, memories from my grandmother, who loved the city back in the ‘80s when she worked as a children’s book editor. I never got to exchange thoughts with her about it, though I’ve been told she spoke of its quiet charm, its slightly academic feel—the kind of place that feels poetic.

Bologna still holds that energy. The tilted bell towers, the endless porticoes—it feels as though the city’s been gently paused in time. But walk through it and it’s anything but still. Students spill into the streets, galleries open late, wine bars stretch out onto the pavement. There’s always something happening.

So here it is: three days in Bologna, built for walking and wandering. And most importantly, eating extremely well. Perfect for a long weekend when you want all the Italian energy without the chaos of Rome or the crowds of Florence.

There’s a bigger list of extra spots at the end if you want to dive deeper or tailor your trip.

Good to Knows

A few small tips:

• Walk it. Once you’re in the historic center, everything’s within 20–30 minutes on foot. No need for buses or bikes unless your feet are really done for

• Pack for layers. This is northern Italy—between October and April, expect rain, damp air, and a bit of a chill. The porticoes help (Bologna has nearly 40 km of them!) but layers are your friend

• Slow down. Bologna moves at its own rhythm. Long lunches melt into aperitivo hour, especially on weekends. No one’s rushing you out of a restaurant

• Mind your Google Maps. The porticoes sometimes throw off GPS, especially at night—don’t stress if you have to loop around a bit.

• Come hungry. Bologna’s soul is edible. It's the birthplace of tagliatelle al ragù, mortadella, lasagna alla Bolognese—and home to some of the best meals of my life, from €2 pizza slices to full-blown Michelin delight

Day 1.

Getting your bearings—first exploration, first bites.

Morning.

Arrive & check in: We stayed at The Social Hub, a half-hotel/half-student-residence setup. Clean, modern, easy to reach the center. Nothing ultra-charming, but it saved us euros we could gleefully redirect toward food (priorities)

Breakfast: Forno Brisa. Coffee, a cornetto, and a very soft landing into Bologna life.
They have several locations but the Galleria location feels quieter, more local. They call themselves a "rebel bakery" and I love them for that. Tip: Not into a sweet breaky? Get a slice of pizza (when Italy, everything is allowed)

Wander under the porticoes: From Forno Brisa, walk south along Via dell’Indipendenza, the city’s lively main artery to Piazza Magiore. Veer off into side streets when they call you—maybe dip into Humana Vintage Bologna if you're in the mood to thrift, or swing by Palazzo Gaudenzi Già dal Monte to peek at University of Bologna history and hidden frescoes

Biblioteca Salaborsa: Right by Piazza Maggiore, this public library is a beautiful mix of modern light and ancient bones—literally. You can view Roman ruins through glass floors. It’s free to enter, and even if you’re not a bookworm, the atmosphere is special

Lunch.

Option 1: If you want to sit down: Sfoglia Rina is where fresh pasta dreams come true. Handmade tortellini, tagliatelle, simple sauces done right. Started as a small pasta shop 50 years ago—it's not fancy but properly delicious. Dish recs: Tortellini in butter and sage (a dream if you love delicate flavors), Tagliatelle al ragù (obviously—this is the dish of Bologna)

Option 2: If you’re short on time or just want to graze: Mercato di Mezzo is an old-market-turned-food-hall. Yes, a little touristy, but still solid for a casual pasta, pizza, or a quick spritz upstairs. Tip: Grab a seat upstairs for better people-watching. The energy is lively without being overwhelming

Afternoon.

Bologna Welcome Walking Tour: Highly recommend if you want to hit all major sites and get a glimpse into the city’s backstory told by someone who loves it—why Bologna used to be Italy’s intellectual capital, how the university changed the city, and the strange stories behind the famous Due Torri (Two Towers). Tours at 10:30AM and 3PM, €18 per person, run by Bologna Welcome, the official tourism office

Aperitivo: Casa Minghetti. By now you’ve earned a spritz (or three). Head here for outdoor tables, polished but relaxed vibes, and excellent people-watching (again).
If the sun’s out, it’s the kind of place you’ll end up staying longer than planned

Night.

Dinner: Trattoria di Via Serra. Small, family-run, outside the main tourist orbit. Fresh pasta, lovely people, classic checked tablecloths—the kind of meal you’ll be talking about months later. Their handmade tortelloni and house wines are fantastic. Book ahead

Day 2.

Exploring Bologna's west side and the more lived-in spots.

Morning.

Breakfast: Caffè Terzi Bologna. Start the day with ritualistic coffee and cornetto at this old-school café, setting you up perfectly for a day of exploration

MAMbo – Museo d’Arte Moderna di Bologna: Next, immerse yourself in modern art at MAMbo. Housed in a former Forno del Pane (bread oven), a great contrast to the city’s ancient streets. A bit off the main tourist path, which makes it feel even more authentic. Affordable treat with a €6 entrance

Lunch.

Option 1: Osteria Bartolini. Seafood in Bologna? Believe it or not, it’s worth it. Try the sardines in oil with a squeeze of lemon or the delicate sole filets. Pair with some local white or orange wine for the full experience

Option 2: Osteria Bottega. Prefer meat? Consider a switch to this osteria for a hearty, meaty traditional Bolognese alternative

Afternoon.

Portico Walk to San Luca: Now that you’re well fueled, set off for a leisurely and somewhat spiritual stroll along the Portico di San Luca. Which I’ve recently learned is the longest portico in the world

Something sweet: After your walk, treat yourself to a gelato at Cremeria Funivia (a local favorite) for celebratory ice cream. They’ve been around for years and are known for their creamy, unique flavors

Night.

Dinner: Da Cesari. For a cozy, classic end to the day, book a table here. Their interiors ooze lively good vibes. Their tortellini in beef broth is a comforting classic, but if you're there during the right season, try the ravioli stuffed with pumpkin, butter, and parmesan

Day 3.

Bologna’s east side—a slower, quieter Bologna—secret courtyards, vintage finds, and one last plate of pasta.

Morning.

Breakfast: Caffetteria Galliera. No frills here—just solid coffee and cornetti to start your last day

Wander to Piazza Santo Stefano: Stroll toward this quieter, more intimate piazza—one of my favorites. It feels almost hidden compared to Piazza Maggiore. While you're here, step into the Basilica di Santo Stefano—also called the "Seven Churches Complex." From the outside, it’s understated. Inside, it’s a labyrinth of ancient chapels, courtyards, and frescoes—some of the oldest parts date back to the 5th century. It feels like stepping back into medieval Bologna—quiet, slightly eerie

Lunch.

Option 1: Osteria La Tigre. Make your way over to Via Rialto for lunch at this cool, retro trattoria decorated with vintage photos. Expect hearty antipasti, pastas, and mains that blend tradition with a bit of playful creativity

Option 2: Vaghi Nu'Fezzi. If you’re feeling more ‘snack’ bites this wine bar and gourmet deli is an elite combo

Sweet treat: Walk a few minutes to Cremeria Santo Stefano for some of the best gelato in Bologna—especially the signature Crema Libanese flavor (pine nuts, orange blossom, sesame 😋)

Afternoon.

Pinacoteca Nazionale di Bologna. After lunch, time for a bit of art and history. This museum houses Italian works from the 13th to 18th centuries, including masterpieces from the Bolognese Renaissance. It’s manageable in size (you won't get "museum fatigue") with a €8 entrance fee

Aperitivo: Zerocinquantuno. Before your final dinner, stop by for a glass of wine or a charcuterie board. It’s relaxed, with a lived-in vibe—perfect for a late afternoon reset

Night.

Final dinner: Cantina Bentivoglio. Round out your 3-day trip with classic Bolognese plates, fresh pasta, a bottle of wine and, if you're lucky, live jazz filling the room

Further list!

In case you want to keep eating, wandering, and falling more in love with Bologna.

⭐ Agostino Iacobucci. If your budget allows, this is the Michelin star experience worth planning around. Set in Villa Zarri just outside the city, chef Agostino mixes Bolognese tradition with his southern Italian roots. Rabbit alla Genovese, black truffles everywhere, and a garden perfect for a post-lunch stroll. Tip: Plan a whole afternoon here—it’s a ride to get there but so, so worth it

⭐ Certo! Pizza. Cheap square slices of focaccia-like crusts. Good to grab-and-go if you’re saving stomach space for bigger meals (or just in need of a little snack)

Trattoria Leonida. A cozy, traditional spot for Emilian and Bolognese classics, including vegetarian options if you’re getting a little pasta-and-meat fatigue

Osteria dell'Orsa. Super casual, communal tables, and hearty bowls of tagliatelle al ragù. Perfect for a chill lunch or low-key dinner

La Prosciutteria Bologna. Fun, chaotic, meat-heavy, and a little over-the-top. Expect giant meat boards, paper plates, loud tables

Salumeria Simoni. Not just a deli—this is where you stock up on cured meats, cheeses, truffle oils, and all the fancy edible souvenirs to stuff into your suitcase

Abacanto Home. Home goods and beautiful little objects

Gallina Smilza. Cute boutique for artisan gifts, quirky home pieces, and vintage finds

La Leonarda Vintage. Well-curated shop if you want something a little more special

Mirko and Kate Vintage. Another good option for more curated, handpicked pieces

Phi Hotel Bologna – Al Cappello Rosso. Stay inside a slice of the city’s history. This hotel started life as a tavern in 1375. Updated but still feels like old Bologna.

Grand Hotel Majestic "già Baglioni". A total splurge. Vintage Italian luxury—think gilded mirrors, heavy velvet drapes, and the feeling you’re in a Sofia Coppola movie. If you're honeymooning or treating yourself, this is it.

Ever been to Bologna? Any additional tips? Dimmi!

Arrivederci! Anna xx

So, you’ve got a day to spare in North London. Excellent choice. This is where I feel most at home in London—after six years, it’s the patch of the city I know like the back of my hand. It’s not where you’ll find blockbuster museums or swanky shopping streets. Instead: local history woven into the bricks, little side streets with surprise pockets of greenery, flaky pastries from the best bakeries, and pubs that feel like you’ve always belonged there. Let’s spend a day wandering.

As always, Google Maps highlights here.

Getting there & around

Don’t be fooled—North London is beautifully connected. Buses zip up and down the main roads, and if you’re on two wheels, take one of the many bike lanes to follow (Lime bikes are everywhere). But honestly? Walk. This is the part of town made for roaming—getting distracted by hidden cafés, front gardens, grand old homes, curious shopfronts, and the occasional cat judging you from a doorstep.

10am – Caffeine & people-watching

☕ Friends of Ours, Pitfield Street

I love to start my North London days here. A small but mighty café on the edge of Old Street. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch the morning sun on one of the outdoor tables and eavesdrop on someone planning their art opening or podcast launch. The eggs on toast are famously good (and somehow always perfectly moist—how do they do that?). Grab a flat white and settle in before you venture further north.

11am – Deli dreams & scone situations

🥐 De Beauvoir Deli

Cut through Shoreditch Park and make your way to De Beauvoir Deli—aka my spiritual home. Whether you choose the sit down Deli or the hatch, inside it’s all Dusty Knuckle pastries (iykyk), amazing coffee (you can smell it before you see the line), and more than a few low-key B-list celeb sightings (hi Alex Turner). And yes—you do deserve that scone and second coffee.

12pm – Rose gardens & residential fantasies

🌿 Northchurch Road → De Beauvoir Rose Garden

This bit always feels like a secret—Northchurch Road leads you through one of the prettiest residential pockets of North London. The kind of street that makes you stop in front of every pastel house and sigh “cute, wish I could get it.”

Stop at the De Beauvoir Rose Garden and just be (with your second coffee and scone). Or pretend you’re in a Nancy Meyers film, set in Hackney.

1pm – Lunch in Newington Green

🥄 Perilla, Jolene, or N16

By now you’ve earned lunch. Head north towards Newington Green—low-key leafy square, and lined with great food. If you’re feeling ~fAnCy~, Perilla is a must: a modern European spot with simple but deeply thoughtful cooking (book ahead!). Seasonal menus that change daily—always get the bread and butter.

Craving something more casual? Jolene and N16 are strong contenders. They offer warm interiors and seasonal menus that comfort without trying too hard. The kind of places where you could sit for hours with a good book or blablabla with friends and family all afternoon long.

3pm – Church Street stroll & shopping

🛍️ Clissold Park + Clissold House → Stoke Newington Church Street

Post-lunch is the golden hour for a proper stroll, and Clissold Park is the perfect place to digest and reset. A local gem for roaming around and the grand old Clissold House, where people actually get married. My wonderful friends Claire and Dan tied the knot there, and it was every bit as lovely and magical as you'd imagine.

Then: onward to Stoke Newington Church Street, just beyond the park gates. This is when I usually debate another coffee (spoiler: I always get it). If you need one too, The Caffeine Fix is there for you—literally and emotionally.

Wander down Church Street, a stretch that manages to feel independent and local. It’s the best little strip in London for buying gifts (or things you’ll pretend are for someone else).

Shops to pop into:

• Stokey’s Delicatessen – picnic supplies or pantry inspo

• Know & Love – gifts you’ll want to keep for yourself

• What Mother Made – handmade children’s clothes with attitude

• Nook Shop – interiors meets ceramics meets everything you love

• Prep – kitchen gear and gadgets you never knew existed / needed

• Kitchen Provisions – knives, tools, and very serious salt

P.S. Once a month on Saturdays, stop by the Abney Public Hall Flea Market—a treasure trove of vintage and bric-à-brac.

5pm e-dinner pint or glass of something chilled

🍷 The Prince or Clarence Tavern

It’s been a day. Time for a drink—the pub feels like the only answer. Head to The Prince—tucked away, welcoming, and just the right amount of scruffy. Does very good Sunday roasts, friendly staff, and always a lively buzz.

Or, for something a bit more polished, slide into Clarence Tavern. Order a glass of wine, sit out back, and breathe. Feels like a reward.

7pm – Dinner time

🍽️ Vicoli di Napoli or Aun

You didn’t think we’d skip dinner, did you?

Time to end the day with something delicious. Vicoli di Napoli has been on my list for a Friday night slice—proper Neapolitan-style pizza with the kind of blistered, airy crust you want to tear in. Casual and cosy.

Feeling something a little more adventurous? Aun is an understated Japanese spot tucked away nearby, serving comforting, umami-packed plates.

FINAL THOUGHTS

TL;DR:
North London won’t shout for your attention, but it’ll win you over quietly.
Spend a day here if you like your city days slow and meandering. Good coffee, flaky pastry, a proper lunch, a park stroll, and a pub pint will seal it all in.

Anything I’ve missed? What’s your North London ritual?

INGOING THOUGHTS

Ahh, Marseille bébé (cue Bande Organisée). Before visiting, I heard all kinds of mixed takes: chaotic yet unreasonably slow, gritty and rough around the edges yet effortlessly charming, smelly yet airy and fresh with that salty Mediterranean breeze. IIt’s not the kind of place where you can just show up and blend in—the Marseillais will make sure you know you’re an outsider, and they’ll let you know you don’t have what it takes to truly navigate their city of contradictions. But honestly? That’s what makes Marseille so alive. No wonder gentrifying millennials (sorry) are flocking here in search of the good life.

This guide is for those spending a few days in Marseille, trying to make sense of its wild, wonderful landscape. Whether you’re stopping through on a South of France road trip or settling in for a long weekend, we visited over Easter (3-4 days), which was the perfect amount of time to soak it all in—some sightseeing, long sun-drenched lunches or apéros with rosé and pastis, and just enough time to absorb the rhythm of and fall a little in love with the place.

Allons-y ma gâtée!

Google Maps link to all addresses mentioned here.

NAVIGATING MARSEILLE

A few things to keep in mind:

• Patience is key. The South of France is known for its slow pace, but Marseille operates on its own timeline. You rush a waiter? Expect a shrug and a delayed response. Just go with it.

• It’s beautiful, but stay aware. Marseille has a reputation—some parts are best avoided. Stick to well-known areas, don’t wander too far off the beaten path at night, and you’ll be fine.

• Beaches & calanques? Head out of the city. If you’re dreaming of crystal-clear waters, avoid the city beaches (overcrowded, not the best) and venture outside Marseille. Take a bus or rent a car to explore the real gems of the Calanques National Park—worth it for the untouched beauty.

  

WHERE TO STAY

Different vibes depending on where you plant yourself:

• Préfecture, Conception, Saint-Victor — Central enough without the madness of Le Vieux Port. Great cafés, close to sights, but with a local feel.

• Le Vallon des Auffes — The dream spot, if you can find a place. Tiny fishing harbor, postcard views, local seafood spots.

• Le Panier — A must-visit neighborhood but maybe not the best to stay in. Narrow streets, lots of stairs, expensive Airbnbs that don’t quite feel worth it.

• The Old Port (Le Vieux Port) — Think of it like Times Square. It’s the city center, but would you really stay in Midtown NYC?

Hotel recs:

• Boutique Hotel Provencia — An old yet stylish mansion boutique hotel.

• Maisons du Monde Hotel — Yes! The furniture brand does hotels!

• Les Bords de Mer — For a fancy stay, opt for this over a Vieux Port hotel

• Wild card: Hôtel Le Corbusier — An architectural icon. A bit out of the way, but worth a detour even just for a coffee with a view.

FOOD & DRINKS

Marseille’s food scene? Just great. A mix of Provençal flavors, seafood, and surprisingly, some of the best pizza you’ll have outside of Italy (I mean if the NYTimes says it, it has to be true).

Breakfast & Cafés

Forget fancy brunch—the move is to grab a pastry (croissant, pain au chocolat) from a boulangerie and find a sunny spot to enjoy it.

• Boulangerie Aixoise — Not known for bread, but the pain au chocolat and navettes (orange blossom cookies) are 10/10. Could eat 20 of those in one sitting.

• Succulentes Café — If you need something more substantial. Fresh granola, muesli, veggie toast. Perfect pre-hike fuel before Notre-Dame de la Garde.

• Uma — A cute sit-down spot near Place des Catalans for a coffee break before wandering on.

Quick Lunch Spots

• Chez Fanny — Amazing sandwiches and panisse (local chickpea fries pancakes… is the best way I can define it). Not refined, but Marseille street food gold. Grab your Rasta sandwich and sit on the steps of Place Villeneuve-Bargemon.

• Pain à l'Ail — Rustic, decadent Provençal flavors. I still dream about the Aïoli sandwich.

Sit-Down Lunch & Dinner

• Tripletta — Legitimately some of the best pizza ever.

• La Bella Pizza — A Marseille institution, historic, family-run, and the pizza hits.

• Maison Vauban and Mijoba — Seasonal menus, local ingredients, both chic but unpretentious.

• La Bonne Mer — Haven’t been yet, but it’s on my list (and my saved Instagram accounts for design inspiration)—seafood straight from the daily catch.

Apéro (when in Marseille, you just have to)

• Bistrot Plage — You don’t go for the food. You go for the view, the sea breeze, those orange sunbathing chairs, and the matching Apérol in hand.

• Cours Julien — Lively in the evening, great breweries and bars. My picks: La Brasserie Communale and Le Petit 51.

• If you’re closer to Le Vieux Port, take your pick at the Cours Honoré-d'Estienne-d'Orves — Terraces, people-watching, market stalls. My picks: Acuda and Pulp.

  

CULTURE & SIGHTSEEING

• Notre-Dame de la Garde — The most iconic landmark in Marseille and easily the best panoramic view in town. The climb up is steep (hydrate accordingly), but it’s worth it—especially if you go early before the crowds roll in. A tip: Watch S3E1 of The Parisian Agency on Netflix before you visit—the house they showcase is just across from the basilica, and it gives you a glimpse into just how dreamy life in Marseille can be.

• Le Panier — Welcome to old Marseille with its cute and colorful streets, charming boutiques, and charming atmosphere. It’s perfect for a slow wander—no map needed, just follow your instincts. (Maybe pop into Dutch Café for a caffeine fix).

• MUCEM to Palais du Pharo — From Le Panier, you can begin an easy, scenic walk. Start at MUCEM (Musée des Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée)—not just for the exhibits, but for its striking honeycomb-like architecture and prime waterfront location. Then, walk along Le Vieux Port, the heart of the city. Continue toward Palais du Pharo, offering a stunning view of the water and the city.

• From the Catalan beach to Prado — If you’re craving some sea air, follow the Corniche Kennedy, Marseille’s coastal road. Start at Plage des Catalans, the closest beach to the center, and continue south along the Corniche Kennedy. The promenade stretches all the way to Plage du Prado, Marseille’s biggest beach, where you can dip your toes in the Mediterranean and take in a different, more relaxed side of the city. Not up for the full walk (it does take about an hour)? Hop on the bus, ligne 83 (€2 one-way), for an easy ride between the two.

• Le Vallon des Auffes — Tucked just off Corniche Kennedy, this tiny fishing port feels like something straight out of a painting. The whole place has a slow, time-stood-still charm. The perfect spot to order a glass of wine and watch the sunset—chef’s kiss.

SHOPPING

Marseille has its own understated but effortlessly cool style—an artsy more colorful edge than a city like Paris. Anywhere you go you’ll find cute local spots, a few standouts worth a browse:

• Librarie Tsundoku – A beautifully curated independent manga store (I’m biased, my cousin is one of the founders!)

• Bazaar Caesar Shop and Savonnerie Marseillaise de la Licorne – The best places to pick up authentic Savon de Marseille. You’ll get the real deal here!

• Sessùn – Marseille’s own indie fashion and homeware brand.

BEYOND MARSEILLE

If the hustle and bustle of Marseille starts to wear you out, take a breather with an escape to Château d’If & Les Îles du Frioul—a perfect day trip if you don’t have a car or can’t be bothered squeezing onto a bus to the Calanques. If the weather’s good, it’s a must.

• How to get there. A short 20-30-minute boat ride leaving from Le Vieux Port. Tickets sell out fast in peak season, so book online or go early.

• What to bring. Sunscreen, water, and snacks (better yet, a picnic) are essential. The food options on the islands? Meh at best. And if it’s going to be anything above 18C, bring a bathing suit and towel for a dip in the sea!

• Once you depart from Marseille’s port, your first stop will be Château d'If—the fortress-turned-prison made famous by The Count of Monte Cristo. Climb up to the ramparts, then stop by the tiny café for a coffee (or a cheeky glass of rosé) with a view like nowhere else in the city .

• Hop back on the boat toward the Îles du Frioul archipelago. A Mediterranean dream—rugged cliffs, secluded coves, and ridiculously clear waters. There’s not much out there besides nature, which is the whole point. Once you arrive at the embarcadère—turn right for a walk along the edges of the archipelago, and / or turn left to find quaint beaches to bask in the sun and take a refreshing dip in the sea.

  

FINAL THOUGHTS

the best way to experience Marseille? Let go of expectations. The city doesn’t do urgency—push too hard, and it will push right back. Instead, wander, slow down, and let it reveal itself to you.

Marseille isn't a "visit and tick off a checklist" city—it's a place you slip into, a city that makes you think, "Wait, should I move here?” And honestly? Maybe yes.

À bientôt! xx Anna

I love to travel, but more than that—I love to give recommendations on places I’ve traveled. To share the excitement of all the gems I’ve found, to make sure no one I know ever falls into an overpriced tourist trap, and let’s be real—I just love giving my opinion. So, I figured, why not start putting it somewhere?

I initially thought Instagram might be the place, but after exactly two posts (turns out, I have zero patience for the algorithm), I realized I needed something different. Then, after a weekend away with girlfriends and a very convincing Laure, the idea of Substack started making sense. A space where I can brain-vomit all my opinions, keep a record of my travels, and expand on things as much—or as little—as I want. A diary, a think piece, a way to fill the MySpace/Skyblog-shaped millennial hole that no other platform has quite managed to replace.

So, here we are. Starting with travel, but who knows where this will go? Welcome to my brain, my thoughts, my travels, and the things that fuel me.

And what better place to begin than the one and only—Venezia. (Google Maps link to all addresses mentioned here)

INGOING THOUGHTS

Few places feel as magical as Venice. I try to go into new destinations with no expectations, but let’s be real—Venice? I had thoughts. Part of me worried it would be all Disneyland vibes, overrun with tourists, lacking authenticity. But Venice is alive in a way I didn’t expect. It’s otherworldly, transportive. A city that, by all logic, shouldn’t work (it’s literally sinking), yet somehow, it just does—if you do it right.

Did it help that we visited in mid-January? Probably. Even with a bit of rain, when the sun broke through, it felt even more magical—especially coming from the cold, grey London winter.

A big thank you to all the friends & fam who trial-and-errored before us so we could have the truly amazing Venice experience everyone deserves. Cheers to less overpriced cappuccinos, more hidden cicchetti bars. Less checking off landmarks, more getting lost in little alleyways that suddenly open up onto canals bathed in golden light.

Let’s get into it.

ARRIVING IN VENICE

First things first: Take the boat. Forget the train or bus—arriving in Venice by water is part of the experience. The ferry from the airport is way more affordable than a private water taxi, but if you land late or want to go full drama, splurge on this private transfer. We did and got dropped off at our hotel, Pensione Accademia, like royalty.

NAVIGATING VENICE

A few things to keep in mind:

• Venice is 100% walkable, but that means no metro, no cabs, and no escape from the elements. If you’re visiting between October and March—waterproof shoes and an umbrella wouldn’t hurt.

• Walking distances are deceiving. It’s never actually far (20–45 minutes max), but you’ll zigzag over bridges and get mildly lost. Factor that in.

• Gondolas: We skipped them and saved our money for good food and wine (#priorities). If you must, ask your hotel for a recommendation so you don’t get a generic loop.

• DO NOT pay €10+ for a mediocre coffee just because you’re near Piazza San Marco. Don’t be us. Walk a few streets away, and you’ll find better (and cheaper) options below.

WHERE TO STAY

Tempting as it is to stay near Piazza San Marco, being a little away from the chaos is even better.

If you’re planning a longer trip (or are an overpacker like me), stay near a main bridge or dock. Venice has the most bridges in the world—you don’t want to be hauling a suitcase up and down up and down up and down (you get the idea) all of them.

As mentioned, we stayed at Pensione Accademia, one of the only hotels in Venice with a direct dock (luxurious!), plus a garden on the other side. It’s got the classic Venetian charm, a great location by the Accademia Bridge, and a dreamy breakfast. 10/10, would stay again.

FOOD & DRINKS

Let’s get to the good part… Venice has a rep for expensive, underwhelming food—but venture beyond the tourist traps, and you’ll find absolute gems. Book ahead where you can; spots fill up fast. We were warned and are eternally grateful.

Breakfast & Pasticcerias

Full disclosure: our hotel’s breakfast was so good we barely made it out to these. But if you don’t have that luxury…

• Pasticceria Rizzardini – Tiny, historic, and beloved by locals (if you have a look on TripAdvisor Italians clearly rate it).

• Pasticceria Tonolo – Another pastry standout.

• Panaderia Sin Nombre – Stumbled upon this and oh my, the bread looked life-changing. We were late for a reservation and swore we’d come back. The next day? Couldn’t find it. Vanished. Did we imagine it? Eventually tracked it down on Google Maps—but no website, no socials. Just trust us.

Worth-Booking Restaurants

• La Zucca – Thank you to our buddies Em and Tomer for recommending this place because we wouldn’t have found it otherwise! Cozy, veggie-forward, Venetian-inspired. They offer a new menu every day with seasonal vegetables and special dishes so you know you’re in for a treat. Get a Prosecco to start. Incredible branding (graphic designer me loved it). Call repeatedly to book.

• Pietra Rossa – Found via its dreamy website and got sold on the founder Andrea Lorenzon’s story and creative eye - colourful, bright, vibrant, and distinctive from other modern, minimal-leaning restaurants you’ll find today. The tasting menu + wine pairing? Unreal. Bonus: If you go on a Sunday, the owner’s mom makes cookies for coffee. Sunday only!

• Vini Da Arturo – Not for everyone, but we loved it! A no-nonsense Venetian trattoria with a brash, wacky owner who has a binder full of photos from all the celebs that have dined there. It was featured on Somebody Feed Phil so get ready for American tourists (hey, I can say that I’m American). The huge pork chop was as good as those reviews. It is massive—so share it.

More Affordable, But Just as Good

• La Bottiglia – Fresh paninis + fantastic wine. AKA, my heaven. If it’s full, pop over to its neighbor Vizietto.

• Bacaro at Combo – Unexpected find! Cheap drinks, great cicchetti. We hit it up after coming off the boat back from Burano—a genius move to ease into our dinner plans.

• La Sete & Estro - Pane e Vino – Closed for the season, but highly recommended.

Touristy, But Worth It

• Gio’s at St. Regis – I mean, was this essential? No. Was it pricey? Yes. But was it worth it? 100%. Prime boat-and-people-watching for us nosy gossip types. A better splurge than €10 tourist-trap coffee.

CULTURE & SIGHTSEEING

Oh, you’re here for more than food? Fine. Some top picks:

• Basilica San Marco & Doge’s Palace – Book ahead. Maybe not the same day so you don’t get stuck inside for a good 3-4 hours. Also, listen to Rick Steves’ walking tours - they’re nerdy, but great:

  • Basilica

  • Piazza San Marco

• Ca' Pesaro International Gallery of Modern Art – Seeing Picasso, Rodin, and Warhol all in one Venetian palazzo? Yes, please.

• Peggy Guggenheim Collection & Gallerie dell'Accademia – Next time!

• Live Music – Biggest regret. Churches and venues host gorgeous concerts at night. Interpreti Veneziani, near the Accademia Bridge, looked like a great pick—Vivaldi in Venice? Enough said.

SHOPPING

If you have money left (sadly, we did not) there were a few gems worth noting:

• Piedàterre – I really really hesitated on getting these handmade Venetian slippers. But didn’t pull the trigger.

• Laguna B. – Obsessed with these beauties I first laid my eyes upon at Vini di Arturo. Timeless Murano glassware. Have found dupes from Maegen and Hay.

• Antica Legatoria Ofer & Legatoria Polliero – Beautiful handmade stationery.

• Vintageria Venezia – Good for a vintage treasure hunt. Didn’t find anything, but fun to browse.

• Paperoowl – Unique jewelry pieces.

BEYOND THE MAIN ISLAND

Burano

Venice can be a little overwhelming… and moody (in the best way), so if you need a dose of color therapy, Burano is it. A 45-minute boat ride away, this tiny island is an explosion of candy-colored houses. We went early to avoid tourist hordes.

Food recs:

• Trexento – Great cappuccino + Bussolà cookies (Burano classic).

• All’Ombra – Cute spot for cicchetti right on the canal.

• Venissa Ristorante – For a very special occasion. We skipped it this time (bye money) but eyed it for the future.

Torcello

Since you’ll be out that way, Torcello is just a quick hop from Burano. It’s quiet, historic, and home to some stunning old churches.

Murano

We skipped it. The reviews were meh—too touristy, overpriced, and a bit of a glass factory conveyor belt rather than an artisan experience. But if you’re really into glassblowing, it might still be worth a look.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Venice isn’t a city to conquer. It’s best enjoyed with no agenda, a good pair of shoes, and an appetite for getting lost + eating well. Wander down random alleys. Pop into bars for cicchetti and spritzes. Ditch the map and just go.

Divertiti!

First Substack post, done! Since you’re probably all my friends and fam—drop your recs, tell me if you agree / disagree, and what you liked / didn’t like about this first post. Feedback = growth, so be honest!

Anna xx